Honda CBR1000RR

Racing roots

The Honda CBR1000RR was developed by the same team that was behind the MotoGP series.[1] Many of the new technologies introduced in the Honda CBR600RR, a direct descendant of the RC211V, were used in the new CBR1000RR such as a lengthy swingarm, Unit Pro-Link rear suspension, and Dual Stage Fuel Injection System (DSFI).
[edit] 2004-2005

The Honda CBR1000RR was the successor to the CBR954RR. While evolving the CBR954RR design, few parts were carried over to the CBR1000RR.[2] The compact 998 cc (60.9 cu in) in-line four was a completely fresh design, with unique bore and stroke dimensions, race-inspired cassette-type six-speed gearbox, all-new ECU-controlled ram-air system, dual-stage fuel injection, and center-up exhaust featuring a new computer-controlled butterfly valve. The chassis was likewise all new, including an organic-style aluminum frame composed of Gravity Die-Cast main sections and Fine Die-Cast steering head structure, inverted fork, Unit Pro-Link rear suspension, radial-mounted front brakes, and a centrally-located fuel tank hidden under a faux cover. Additionally, the Honda Electronic Steering Damper (HESD) debuted as an industry first system which drastically improved stability and nearly completely eliminated head shake while automatically adjusting for high and low speed steering effort.

A longer swingarm acted as a longer lever arm in the rear suspension for superior traction under acceleration and more progressive suspension action. Substantially longer than the corresponding unit on the CBR954RR (585 mm (23.0 in) compared to 551 mm (21.7 in)) the CBR1000RR's 34 mm (1.3 in) longer swingarm made up 41.6 percent of its total wheelbase. The CBR1000RR's wheelbase also increased, measuring 1,405 mm (55.3 in); a 5 mm (0.20 in) increase over the 954.

Providing room for a longer swingarm required massive changes to the engine architecture, another reason the CBR1000RR power plant shares nothing with the 954. Shortening the engine compared to the 954 meant rejecting the conventional in-line layout. Instead, engineers positioned the CBR1000RR's crankshaft, main shaft and countershaft in a triangulated configuration, with the countershaft located below the main shaft, dramatically shortening the engine front to back, and moving the swingarm pivot closer to the crankshaft. This configuration was first successfully introduced by Yamaha with the Yamaha YZF-R1 model in 1998 and inspired superbike design in the following years to date.
2004 CBR1000RR

Positioning this compact engine farther forward in the chassis also increased front-end weight bias, an effective method of making high-powered liter bikes less wheelie prone under hard acceleration. This approach, however, also provided very little space between the engine and front wheel for a large radiator. Engineers solved this problem by giving the RR a modest cylinder incline of 28 degrees, and moving the oil filter from its frontal placement on the 954 to the right side of the 1000RR engine. This allowed the RR's center-up exhaust system to tuck closely to the engine, opening the space required for a massive MotoGP-style curved radiator with 40 percent more cooling capacity than the 954's unit, a key to making big horsepower with high durability.

The engine was designed specifically with an eye toward handling as well as horsepower and torque. Since the power plant represents a large percentage of a motorcycle's mass, the engine must be configured to assist the handling process, not hinder it. For decades, Honda has championed the concept of mass centralization, that is, concentrating the component masses as close to the motorcycle's center as possible. The CBR1000RR elevated that concept to a higher plane.

Honda engine designers paid special attention to making the CBR1000RR power plant an extremely compact package to enhance mass centralization and reduce the roll polar moment, while yielding other benefits as well. While some engines employ ever-more oversquare dimensions, Honda employed a relatively modest 75 mm bore with a 56.5 mm (2.22 in) stroke to derive a displacement of 998 mm (39.3 in). This choice yields a remarkably narrow engine fit into a commensurately narrower chassis, all the better for increased mass centralization and improved ground clearance as well.

Other measures taken to enhance mass centralization in the CBR1000RR included positioning the starter motor and drive gear on the right side of the engine, which also created a narrower engine profile for added ground clearance. The 1000RR incorporated a balancer shaft to virtually eliminate secondary engine vibration, and with an eye toward mass centralization it too has been positioned close to the engine's center of gravity. Placing other major masses (fuel and rider) closer to the roll axis resulted in a motorcycle that reacted more quickly and smoothly to control inputs at the handlebars. Like the RC211V and the CBR600RR, the CBR1000RR fuel tank shares space under a faux tank cover with a forward-mounted air box, thanks to the Unit Pro-Link rear suspension system.

The Unit Pro-Link design provided a wealth of benefits. The shock is contained entirely within the swingarm and is positioned lower than in a conventional design. Both contribute to mass centralization, in part by giving the centrally mounted fuel tank room to extend downward. Because the shock is contained within the swingarm and does not require a top mount on the frame, the bulk of the 4.8-gallon tank was positioned down low between the frame rails, close to the centerline of the machine. Two other benefits resulted from the RR's fuel placement; the mass of the fuel load has less effect on handling, thereby facilitating quick directional changes; and, because the fuel tank is shorter, the CBR1000RR rider sits closer to the steering head compared to the 954.

To achieve quicker handling, Honda engineers also lightened as many pieces as possible that are far from the center of mass. That gave rise to the RR's compact Line-Beam headlights, with their high-illumination three-piece reflectors; slim-line LED taillight; single-piston rear brake system that's lighter than that of the 954; an analog/digital fully electronic instrument panel that's one of the lightest and slimmest ever mounted on a street bike; plus a host of other changes.

The 2004 model carried over to the 2005 model year with only color scheme changes.
[edit] 2006-2007
2007 Honda CBR1000RR

The 2006 CBR1000RR offered incremental advancements over the earlier model with more power, better handling and less weight. Changes for 2006 include:

* New intake and exhaust porting (higher flow, reduced chamber volume)
* Higher compression ratio (from 11.9:1 to 12.2:1)
* Revised cam timing
* More intake valve lift (from 8.9mm to 9.1mm)
* Double springs for the intake valves
* Higher redline (from 11,650 rpm to 12,200 rpm)
* Larger rear sprocket (from 41 to 42 teeth)
* New exhaust system
* New chassis geometry
* Larger 320 mm (13 in) front brake discs but thinner at 4.5 mm (0.18 in)
* Revised front suspension
* Revised rear suspension with new linkage ratios
* New lighter swingarm
* Revised front fairing design

The 2006 model carried over to the 2007 model year mostly unchanged. The brushed aluminimum swing arm was changed to black, to match the black frame, except for the Race-Replica edition where the frame was changed from black to brushed aluminum to match the swing arm, and the bike was offered in four new color schemes; Black, Red/Black, Satin Silver and Race-Replica Repsol.
[edit] 2008-2010

An all new CBR1000RR was introduced at the Paris International Motorcycle Show on September 28, 2007 for the 2008 model year. The CBR1000RR is powered by an all new 999 cc (61.0 cu in) inline-four engine with a redline of 13,000 rpm. It features titanium valves and an enlarged bore with a corresponding reduced stroke. The engine has a completely new cylinder block, head configuration, and crankcase with lighter pistons. A new ECU delivers two separate revised maps sending the fuel and air mixture to be squeezed tight by the 12.3:1 compression ratio. Ram air is fed to an enlarged air box through two revised front scoops located under the headlamps. Honda claims power output to be at least 178 hp (133 kW) beginning at 12,000 rpm.

Honda made a very focused effort to reduce and centralize overall weight. A lighter, narrower die cast frame was formed using a new technique which Honda claims allows for very thin wall construction and only four castings to be welded together. Almost every part of the new bike was reengineered to reduce weight including the sidestand, front brake hoses, brake rotors, battery, and wheels.

In order to improve stability under deceleration, a slipper clutch is now available with a unique center-cam-assist mechanism. The Honda Electronic Steering Damper (HESD) has been revised this year as well. Another significant change is the exhaust system which is no longer a center-up underseat design. The CBR1000RR now features a side slung exhaust in order to increase mass centralization and compactness while mimicking a Moto GP style.

On September 5, 2008, Honda announced the 2009 model. The bike remained the same, in terms of engine, styling, and performance. The only new addition was the introduction of the optional factory fitted Combined ABS (C-ABS) system originally showcased on the CBR600RR Combined ABS prototype. In addition to the new color schemes offered on the 2009 model, Honda reintroduced a Repsol limited edition color scheme. The Repsol paint edition in the US originally was offered without C-ABS. European versions had C-ABS available.
2010 Honda CBR1000RR at the 2009 Seattle International Motorcycle Show

On September 4, 2009, Honda announced the 2010 model. Honda increased the diameter of the flywheel for more inertia. This improved low-rpm torque and smoother running just off idle. The license plate assembly was redesigned for quicker removal when preparing the motorcycle for track use. The muffler cover was also redesigned for improved appearance. New color schemes

10 Tips From Mahindra Power Scooters For A Long Lasting Automatic Scooter

Any machine requires maintenance for it to keep running to its optimum performance. Scooters also require timely maintenance for optimum performance. A powerful and sturdy scooter like the Mahindra Duro or Mahindra Rodeo can keep serving you for years together, provided you look into its proper maintenance. Here are 10 Tips from Mahindra Power Scooters that will ensure that your scooter never gives you a problem. There are some things like checking the oil level and checking the tyre pressure that you can easily do on your own, but for most of other maintenances you will have to take your scooter to a trusted mechanic or the authorized service centre. Mahindra recommends that you always take your scooters to their respective Service Centers. It is always safer that ways. Usually a full servicing is scheduled every 2000 to 2500 kms

Tip no. 1

This is the first and foremost and the most important step to a healthy and long lasting scooter. And that is regular Oil change. It is imperative to regularly check oil level and change the oil if it has become dark and viscous or has fallen below the required level. An oil change will not cost you more than Rs. 200 but it ensures the life of the engine. Only use the recommended oil in the owner’s manual of the scooter.

Tip no. 2

At some point in its life, any vehicle, whether it be a car or a truck or a motortcycle or a scooter, will give starting problems. For a scooter, one of the ways to solve this problem is to prime the carburetor before attempting to start it. A primer pump bowl is located at the bottom of the carburetor. The primer pump needs to be pressed and released several times until petrol can be seen flowing in the bowl through the clear tube attached to the fuel tank. Once the fuel starts flowing freely, the scooter should start. However, it may induce flooding if the activity is done once the scooter has warmed up.

Tip no. 3

The item that takes least inspection time in a scooter is the tyres. Though it is an easy task, it holds a lot of importance. It is very important to maintain the proper tyre pressure in both the tyres for two reasons. Firstly, A low Tyre pressure will make the scooter consume more fuel and secondly, a scooter balances on just two tyres, and incorrect tyre pressure can very easily lead to loss of control and and untoward injuries. Look for cracks and splits at the value stem and see that there is enough tread on the tyres.

Tip no. 4

A scooter will keep running without any jerks if the carburetor is clean of any kind of residue. The carburetor pumps the fuel and mixes it with air at the precise measurement. It uses a setup of small diaphragms, orifices and ports, which easily get clogged by contaminants. That is why it is imperative to use only the best, clean and new fuel in your scooters.

Tip no. 5

No matter how strongly scooter’s body is built, it is bound to loosen up due to continuous usage. Joints, hinges and other attachments tend to come loose because of the impact of speed breakers and potholes. Check these things to ensure that your scooter is properly assembled. Never continue using the scooter if you feel that any of the joints or hinges has become loose or if there is any disturbance in its balance. Get the looseness problem fixed before resuming the ride.

Tip no. 6

Adjust your carburetor and the idling speed to the optimum level. There is a small Golden colored screw on the side of the carburetor. This is the idle speed screw. This screw should be adjusted so the engine idles at a speed just fast enough to keep running. If the scooter does not idle properly, or idles too fast, you can adjust the idling by turning the screw. Turning this screw clockwise increase the idle speed and turning it counterclockwise decrease the idle speed. Always keep in mind that too fast and idling speed can be dangerous.

Tip no. 7

Spark plug is vulnerable to getting clogged both when the scooter is running too lean of fuel and also when it is running too rich of fuel. Depending on your riding habits and the scooters overall condition, the sparkplug’s electrode sometimes becomes white or sometimes becomes black due to gas, oil and carbon deposits. A clean sparkplug is crucial to the proper starting and proper functioning of the scooter’s motor. Keep the spark plug clean or replace it immediately if signs of wear begin to show. A scooter’s tool kit is always contains a wrench for the easy removal of the sparkplug. You can clean the deposits on the electrode by rubbing it with sand-paper.

Tip no. 8

The air filter is used to clean the air going into the engine. It protects the engine from the damaging effects of dirt and abrasive particulates. A clogged air filter will restrict the flow of air to the engine. Periodic cleaning of this Air filter is recommended for smooth functioning of the engine. The Air Filter can be located in front of the engine and usually behind a protective cover which can be removed with one screw. Clean the filter in a container of petrol/gasoline. Allow the filter to drive before you put it back on.

Tip no. 9

All automatic Scooters are of the “Twist the Throttle and Go” genre. The usage of the throttle in automatic scooters is very high and very extensive. The throttle tends to become loose and sloppy over a period of time. In such a case, the slack can be adjusted on the cable at the handlebars. Loosening the lock nut and adjusting the adjustment will screw will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. Once the desired tension is achieved re-tighten the lock nut.

Tip no. 10

Automatic scooters have both the rear and the front brakes as handbrakes. The brakes can be adjust at the handbrakes on the handlebars itself. Like the adjustment on the throttle cable you can adjust the tension of the brakes by first loosening the locking nut and then adjusting the adjustment screw in or out. Once the desired tension is achieved re-tighten the locking nut.

These are ten tips that will keep your Scooter running to its optimum performance for a long time. These tips, if regularly followed, will ensure that you will never have a major problem with your scooter throughout its life. Only if you don’t pay attention to any of these things, will you face problems like engine seizure.

Nonetheless, Mahindra promises that when you get a Mahindra Power Scooter home, you require the least amount of maintenance for it.

Hero Honda Karisma

Introduced by Hero Honda, this bike was launched in May 2003 and was an instant hit with the youth. The Karizma has been designed to suit the Indian market by the company. The instrument panel, the tank recesses are designed with the functionality in mind. By the comfort standard, the Hero Honda Karizma's seating is aimed to give a sporty look, especially for the youth. The bike is impeccable on straight roads and the cornering is also accurate. The handling is good for the novice as it is quite easy. Karizma has been tried and tested. It consists of a 5-speed gearbox and the engine is all of aluminum make. The fuel economy is 38 km/liter.

Many people buy Bikes of the Hero Honda as they are the best looking machine and give out great performance. The Karizma is the most favorite bike of India. The bike is the first one of its kind with alloy wheels, which gives the most attractive look to it and is a most unique sports machine in India. The Hero Honda Karizma is a 223cc, 4 stroke air cooled engine. The maximum power of the bike is 17PS at 7000RPM and delivers an excellent performance at the speed of 60 kmph in 3.8 seconds. The Karizma has a long wheel base and gives a good sturdy drive even if the rider is at a high speed. The bike has a 130mm rear drum break.

The design which is aerodynamic had air pockets in the front, which zooms onto the road while on highways. The Hero Honda Karizma has a top speed of 125 kmph. If you prefer to leave it at 110 kmph speed, the bike there also works fine. As is apparent the styling is international.

The other specifications of the bike are, it has a multi-plate wet type clutch. The frame is tubular single, swing arm is rectangular. The wheel base of the Hero Honda Karisma is 1350mm, the ground clearance is 150mm. the length is 2125mm, the width is 775mm and the height is 1160mm. about the front suspension, it is a telescopic hydraulic shock absorber. The rear suspension is an arm swing that has 5 step adjustable type hydraulic shock absorbers. The tyre size in the front is 2.75 x 18-42 P. the tyre size at the rear is 100/90 x 18-56P. The wheels are die cast and the fuel tank capacity is 15.0 liter.

Best Motorcycle Helmets - Which One Should You Purchase?

Deciding which helmet is the best helmet for you can be a tough decision especially when you realize how many different variations there are of the motorcycle helmet. In order to determine which is the best motorcycle helmet for you, you really have to decide which type will best fit your personality, safety needs, as well as your budget. A motorcyclist's personality is one of the more important factors considered when deciding which is the best motorcycle helmet because of the weight that the helmet has on how that personality is portrayed. For example, a half helmet with a custom flame paint job is going to give the appearance of a hard nosed, bad to the bone biker, than a plain black full face motorcycle helmet, which may portray the personality of a less eccentric, conservative rider with less of a wild side. If safety is your main concern, then you'll be more likely to select a helmet which has been proven to be more safe and provide a higher level of protection than one that may not be as safe. This may be the case when someone is trying to decide between a full face helmet and a half helmet as they are more likely to pick the full face helmet because of the increased amount of protection that the full face helmet can provide. Finally, a rider's budget will also play a major role in deciding which helmet is the best motorcycle helmet for the rider for the fact that a more expensive helmet can only be conceivable if the rider has the budget that will allow him or her to purchase that helmet. High quality helmets that offer a lot of protection and comfort do not have to be outrageously expensive, and can be easily obtained here at Motor Medley. There are a number of different types of motorcycle helmets that a rider can choose from and below are a few different categories that really need to be understood in order to decide which is the best motorcycle helmet for you. Half Helmets Half helmets are very popular for those that wish to have a little more freedom when wearing a motorcycle helmet because they provide for more ventilation and are not, some say, as constraining because there is not a complete shell encompassing the entire rider's head. The half helmet does not, however, provide the level of protection that a full face helmet provides because of the fact that this is less support provide to the rider's head. Another drawback to half helmets, aside from the fact that they offer less protection than full face helmets, is that they do not have face masks, which means the rider is responsible for remembering to bring along their own eye protection. Some half helmets do come with removable eye shields which provide protection to the rider's eyes. Half helmets are more advantageous in warm riding conditions because of the increased level of ventilation, which helps the rider keep cool. Full Face Helmets Full face helmets are often times more popular for a number of reasons including the fact that they provide a higher level of safety and comfort to riders who are looking for those traits. This is made possible because of the shell that completely covers the rider's head. The helmet shell wraps completely around the front of the face which provides protection to the entire head, not just the sides, top, and back of the head. The full face helmet is more advantageous in cooler riding conditions because they protect the rider from cold winds and temperatures. They also help protect the rider's face from flying dirt and debris. One increasing popular type of full face helmet is the modular which combines the freedom of a half helmet or 3/4 helmet with the protection of a full face in one very convenient helmet. The flip up helmet is made of a complete shell which can be flipped up by simply pressing a button. If you're looking for maximum protection and comfort, then the full face helmet is the best motorcycle helmet for you.Novelty Helmets Novelty helmets are perhaps one of the more increasingly popular types of helmets because of the fact that they are extremely light weight and provide the maximum amount of freedom to the rider. The big drawback to novelty helmets is the fact that they do not offer the protection that the half and full face motorcycle helmet types provide. The reason this is so is because novelty helmets are made with a much thinner liner when compared to the other helmet types which allows them to be lighter than the others. Novelty helmets are very similar to half helmets with respect to the way they look on the rider, but are not as bulky because of the fact that they are less material. If you're looking for a helmet that is extremely lightweight and provides maximum freedom, then the novelty motorcycle helmet is the best motorcycle helmet for you.